When the Next Big Thing in Food Isn’t Actually Next

Success can be a double-edged sword for the chefs and shepherds of marginalized cuisines, with media adoration and cookbook deals leading to unneeded compromises and ultimate failure. The black-eyed pea fritters, called akara, were hot, nutty, and perfectly light. There were bowls of terra-cotta-colored groundnut soup—a rich pot in which peanut butter meets the aromatic […]

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